Demystifying Fertilizers
Have you ever wondered what do those numbers on fertilizers mean and noticed they do not add up to 100%. We are going to provide you with a really good overview and demystify fertilizers for you.
Understanding what the Letter are telling you.
Nitrogen (N):
- Essential for Plant growth
- Helps roots take in water and other nutrients, which are then distributed throughout the plant
- Makes up part of the chlorophyll, which keeps your plants green and forms plant sugars used in the plant's immune system
- Sugars are what help plants absorb nutrients
Phosphorus (P):
- Essential to photosynthesis
- Needed for proper plant growth (development of new tissue)
- Stimulates root development
- Aids in flower formation
- Phosphorus supports new growth
Potassium (K):
- Essential in plant sugar and starch formation
- Promotes healthy root system growth
- Aids in moving nutrients through the plant
- Increases resistance to diseases (scale will quickly attack a plant that is low on Potassium) Increases overall Plant vigor
The numbers indicate the percentage of an ingredient by weight, not by volume. You will notice that if you add the numbers up, they do not indicate a 100%. Most of the material in fertilizers is fill material.
The most prevalent reasons for "Filler" Materials in fertilizers are:
- Dilute/reduce the concentration of the nutrients in the product
- Provide additional weight and/or bulk in the product formula that assists in the proper application
- Ensure/enhance product performance by suppressing dust, preventing caking, etc.
- In some cases, adjust soil pH and/or soil compaction
Micronutrients are also part of the fill material. These leach out of the soil fairly quickly and are partially replace by the fertilizer. Even so this is one reason you need to repot your plants every six/seven or so years:
Important Micronutrients:
- Zinc - Component used in forming enzymes used by the plant
- Iron - Essential for chlorophyll, which keeps plants green
- Manganese - Essential in splitting water into oxygen during photosynthesis
- Copper - Aids in the overall metabolism of the plant
- Nickle - Used to metabolize Urea nitrogen into ammonia
- Chlorine - aids in the metabolism of nitrogen
What type of fertilizer is best for you? Organic or Inorganic?
Organic vs Inorganic:
Organic
- Derived from plants and animals
- You are not feeding the plant but feeding the soil
- Difficult to over-fertilize and burn the root system
Inorganic
- Does not contain carbon
- Made from minerals, synthetics, and chemicals
- Feeds the plant over-fertilization will damage the plant’s root system
Organic
Pros
Cons
Inoganic
Pros
Cons
Information on specific fertilizers and how much to apply
Information on Specific Fertilizers
- Osmocote Fertilizer good slow-release Balanced 10-10-10.
- Dynamite fertilizer, one of the best slow-release fertilizers. Only use the 13-13-13.
- Some consider Miracle-Gro too high in Nitrogen, which may eventually harm your plant. I personally have not heard of that happening
- Gro-Power organic fertilizer is used at the San Diego Safari Park Epiphyllum Trails. This is what I personally use and have had good luck with.
- Growth 5-3-1
- Bloom 3-12-12
- SDES uses Gro-Power Fertilizer at the Safari Park Epiphyllum Trails.
- Recommended application rate for Gro-Power products is ¼ Tsp (1.2ml) per 4-inch pot. ½ Tbsp (7.5 ml) for 1-Gal pot (Note: Use of organic fertilizers makes it difficult to damage plants)
- You should apply 1/2 the amount that is recommended by the manufactures as epiphyllum hybrids require very little fertilizer.
Helping your epiphyllum hybrid bloom quicker!
From cutting until first bloom usually takes three to four years. In a few instances, I have had them bloom in two years. Epis want to be root bound before they bloom. You can speed this process up by planting more than one cutting in a gallon pot. Personally I plant two to four rooted cutting in a gallon pot. Then after a few year of blooming I will split the gallon pot planting two epis in a gallon.
